The finest silk fibers, and most of what we use today, are produced by "cultivated" silkworms grown in a controlled environment. The worms are fed a diet of mulberry leaves and increase their body size 10,000 times in their short life span. Once the cocoon is spun and before the worm hatches through the silk into a moth, the cocoon is soaked in hot water then unraveled, producing filaments that can be up to a mile long in size. The raw silk is then processed to remove the sericin - the natural "gum" that protects the fibers and causes them to stick to each other as the cocoon was spun. Silk is a protein fiber, similar to wool or to human hair. It is only natural for silks to have some irregularities – sometimes called "slubs". This is the nature of the 100% silk fabric. Silk that has been processed can be woven or knit into a variety of fabrics. Silk will shrink, so if you are using it to construct clothing, be sure to preshrink it. Silk often has a wonderful feel, (referred to as a "hand"), and an almost iridescent sheen that makes us think of luxury. The weight of silk is shown as "mm" – pronounced "mommy" – and varies within the different types of silk.
The extra weight of duchess satin, as compared to regular satin fabric, lends itself to beading and embroidery, while the synthetic component allows the fabric to be machine washed, and provides an extra level of durability. The heavy weight of the fabric lends itself to work well with crinolines and petticoats, holding its shape while disguising the underpinnings. Duchess satin is used extensively for bridal wear and corresponding accessories, due to its pearly sheen and structural stability. It is currently the most common fabric used for bridal gowns. It has a very luxurious hand, and a great deal of body to help to create intricate designs in the fabric. The extreme luster gives a dramatic effect to pleats and folds in the fabric. The wrinkle-resistant material is also ideal for evening wear and lingerie.
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